The Rum Barrel Blog

When someone asks me what my favourite rum is, I usually say “rum from Guyana”. I find Guyanese rum very interesting due to its heritage and distillation equipment, so I decided this would be a good time to have a look at the whole El Dorado range and compare them.

El Dorado is the main export brand of Demerara Distillers Limited (DDL) and is made at Diamond Distillery in Guyana. The “Demerara Rum” moniker refers to the distillery’s location on the East Bank of the Demerara River and is a registered Geographical Indication designation.

While nowadays Guyana has only one rum producing distillery, back in the 1700s there were over 300 different producers making their own rum. Over time, with the value of the sugar going down, the introduction of taxes and the overall economical situation of the country, Guyana had to undergo a severe consolidation of the sugar industry as it was not efficient anymore for all the estates to remain in operation. By 1942 there were 9 remaining distilleries and in the 1990s Guyana had only 3 distilleries – Diamond, Enmore and Uitvlugt (pronounced “eye-flot”) all under the umbrella of Demerara Distillers Limited (DDL). Due to further issues with the country’s economics conditions, DDL was forced to shut down rum production at Enmore and Uitvlugt leaving Diamond as Guyana’s sole distillery since 1999 to this date.

Diamond Distillery has an extensive collection of stills, some of which were acquired from previous rum estates over the course of history when rum production at the said estates ceased. The most well known and unique stills that Diamond boasts are its three wooden stills, namely Port Mourant, Versailles and Enmore. These stills are all made from a very durable native wood called greenheart.

The Port Mourant and the Versailles are both wooden pot stills, also dubbed as wooden vat stills, with the Port Mourant being reportedly built in 1732 on the estate with the same name, making it almost 300 years old. The distillates from the Port Mourant were a detrimental component of the British Royal Navy Rum and nowadays it can be found in various contemporary “Navy Rums”. The Enmore is the only surviving wooden column still in the world and also the oldest operating Coffey still – it was build in 1880 and it has the exact same design as the first original Coffey still. It’s worth noting that, while the wooden stills do have a metal skeleton and parts, the wooden body contributes to a very specific and unique flavour profile often described as “oily, green, vegetal”. Besides the wooden stills, there’s also the French Savalle still, which is a 4-column still capable of making 9 out of Diamond’s 24 marques which makes it essential for producing some expressions in the El Dorado range.

El Dorado was first launched in Guyana and a few export markets in the 1960s, but DDL managed to expand it on the US market in the 1990s after purchasing the “El Dorado” trademark from the Puerto Rican rum distillery, Destilleria Seralles. In order to produce El Dorado, Diamond Distillery uses molasses which is fermented in both closed and open tanks for around 24-30 hours long. The resulted carbon dioxide is used for their own range of sodas and beverages. The said wash is then distilled using its various equipment and then reduced to around 70-80% ABV before being placed in casks.

It’s also worth noting that El Dorado has been the subject of many debates regarding adulteration and sugar content. Most of the range did not pass the hydrometer test, despite El Dorado officials claiming for years to not add anything to their rums post distillation. The answer to all that was that the sugar content found in most of the collection came from their rums being aged with caramel inside the barrels. According to Sharon Sue-Hang, Director of Quality Assurance at DDL, this was a historical practice that continued for over 200 years. As of 2004 DDL started experimenting with reducing the amount of caramel needed in its El Dorado blends and, as a result, the El Dorado bottles launched since around 2020 (which also donned a new, upgraded label) contain significantly less sugar (or none). Since there aren’t a lot of hydrometer readings online regarding the updated El Dorado bottlings, I will just describe how sweet it actually feels according to my palate.

I will now review the whole El Dorado core range, up to the 21 year old. Let’s try some Demerara rum!

El Dorado 3 Year Old

This is the youngest rum of the range, the “white” rum.

This rum is made using solely the French Savalle 4-column metal still. After that it is aged and double filtered using natural charcoal in order to remove the colour and, as a result, some of the complexity. It’s the “cleanest” of the range in terms of flavour profile.

El Dorado 3 Year Old is molasses based, column still distilled, aged for 3 years in old ex-Bourbon casks and filtered to remove most of the colour. Bottled at 40% ABV without any additives.

On the nose it feels light and moreish. Raffaello pralines, nutmeg, butterscotch and biscuits. Bananas, white pepper and ink. It isn’t too full bodied, but it has a very enjoyable aroma. Grapefruit zest and a whiff of nail varnish. Unripe pears and some whipped cream as well.

On the palate it’s still light. Nougat, coconut, toffee and some citrus zest. White pepper, biscuits and cappuccino. It seems the ageing did impart some “darker” flavours. Cloves, nutmeg and a hint of anise. The finish is short with nuts and vanilla.

As I mentioned, it isn’t very full bodied and the mouthfeel lacks a little, but this is perfect if you’re looking to make a Daiquiri with some dessert-like notes without the actual added sweetness. It’s a great example of an aged and filtered white rum.

It can be found for around £25.50 (Master of Malt, House of Malt) which is a good price for what you’re getting.

El Dorado 3 Year Old:
Flavour/taste: 49/70
Value for money: 15/15
Transparency/purity: 15/15
Overall: 79/100

El Dorado 5 Year Old

This is the link between the 3 Year Old and the longer aged rums from the range.

This rum is made using distillates from the French Savalle four-column metal still and the Enmore wooden Coffey still.

El Dorado 5 Year Old is molasses based, column and wooden column still distilled and aged for 5 years in old ex-Bourbon casks. Bottled at 40% ABV with potential sugar/caramel added.

On the nose that signature caramel flavour makes its appearance. Burnt sugar, raw cacao nibs, dusty cardboard and black pepper. Raisins, cappuccino and chocolate brownie. It feels like it’s aged longer than 5 years. Toasted walnuts, muscovado and some black tea. Faint liquorice as well.

On the palate it’s thinner than the nose led to believe. Caramel, brown sugar and raw cacao nibs. Maple syrup and some warm spices. This is very much caramel forward. Ground coffee and a touch of vanilla. The finish is short with caramel and maple syrup.

This isn’t a bad one, but I prefer sipping the 3 Year Old if anything. Also it does feel like it has some caramel added which takes over its already light profile. I would use this in light swizzles or punches.

You can buy the 5 Year Old for around £28 (The Whisky Exchange, House of Malt, Master of Malt) and sometimes you can find it for £26 (Amazon) when on offer. It isn’t a bad price, but as I mentioned, I’d rather get the 3 Year Old.

El Dorado 5 Year Old:
Flavour/taste: 47/70
Value for money: 14/15
Transparency/purity: 14/15
Overall: 75/100

El Dorado 8 Year Old

This is where we are slowly being introduced to the older rums in the range.

This rum is made using distillates from the French Savalle four-column metal still, Diamond metal Coffey column and the Enmore wooden Coffey still.

El Dorado 8 Year Old is molasses based, column and wooden column still distilled and aged for 8 years in old ex-Bourbon casks. Bottled at 40% ABV with potential sugar/caramel added.

On the nose it seems brighter than the 5 Year Old. Ripe stone fruits, menthol, caramel and vanilla. Nutmeg, ginger and cocoa. It feels quite a bit more fruity than I thought. Passion fruit, ripe bananas and black tea. Some unripe pineapple as well.

On the palate it feels like it has quite a bit going on. Stone fruits, caramel, cardamom and passion fruit. Vanilla, brown sugar and black tea. It tastes both fruity and “dark”. Overripe apples, cinnamon and Tic Tacs. The finish is short to medium with stone fruits and caramel.

While not particularly outstanding, this is a good all rounder. It’s great for any kind of cocktails, from punches to Old Fashioneds and it isn’t too bad for sipping either – I honestly think it’s the best value for money from the range.

This one is priced at £32 (Master of Malt, Amazon) which is very good given its versatility.

El Dorado 8 Year Old:
Flavour/taste: 51/70
Value for money: 15/15
Transparency/purity: 15/15
Overall: 81/100

El Dorado 12 Year Old

Now we are entering the realm of the definite sippers from the El Dorado range.

This rum is made using distillates from the Diamond metal Coffey column and the Enmore wooden Coffey still.

El Dorado 12 Year Old is molasses based, column and wooden column still distilled and aged for 12 years in old ex-Bourbon casks. Bottled at 40% ABV with potential sugar/caramel added.

On the nose it reminds me of a nice pot still rum. Stone fruits galore, shoe polish, dusty old books and charred oak. Caramel, menthol and raw cacao nibs. It feels like it has a subtle earthy, Caroni-like layer as well. Sour cherries, almonds and a whiff of moth balls. Kiwi, vanilla and Fernet.

On the palate it becomes “darker”. Dark chocolate, light tobacco, black pepper and caramel. Stone fruits, moth balls and menthol. This has changed significantly since there’s no more/not as much caramel in it. Sweet black coffee, ginger and almonds. Sour cherries and vanilla as well. The finish is long with stone fruits and chocolate.

This is a completely different beast since its previous caramel-laced version, it has more fruity and nutty notes rather than just tasting of molasses. A lovely tipple that could potentially go toe-to-toe with some limited edition pot stills out there – I just wish it had a bit more points in the ABV. Would easily use it in an Old Fashioned or even a Sazerac.

You can purchase this one for around £38-£39 (House of Malt, The Whisky Exchange, Master of Malt, Amazon) which isn’t bad at all.

El Dorado 12 Year Old:
Flavour/taste: 54/70
Value for money: 15/15
Transparency/purity: 15/15
Overall: 84/100

El Dorado 15 Year Old

This is where we finally get some pot still distillate into the blend.

This rum is made using distillates from the Port Mourant wooden vat still, Versailles wooden vat still, Diamond metal Coffey column and the Enmore wooden Coffey still.

El Dorado 15 Year Old is molasses based, wooden pot still, column and wooden column still distilled and aged for 15 years in old ex-Bourbon casks. Bottled at 40% ABV with potential sugar/caramel added.

On the nose it’s a notch more intense than the 12 Year Old. Caramel, liquorice, stone fruits and moth balls. Dark chocolate, almonds and toasted walnuts. There’s a lot going on and I’m enjoying it. Black tea, bananas, pears and allspice. Nail varnish, muscovado sugar and burnt orange zest.

On the palate is where the Port Mourant really makes a difference. Liquorice, caramel, black tea and bananas. Menthol, vanilla and toasted biscuits. It’s layered with both bright and dark notes. Ripe stone fruits, plums, raisins and dried fig. Rich tobacco, marmalade, charred oak, almonds and walnuts. The finish is long with warm spices, orange and liquorice.

I know there’s always a debate regarding which one is the best between the 12 Year Old and the 15 Year Old, but for me the latter takes it without question. The addition of the Port Mourant distillate changes everything and just elevates the whole blend. I would simply sip this, no questions asked.

The 15 Year Old can be usually found for £56 (The Whisky Exchange, House of Malt, Master of Malt), but sometimes it can be bought for £48 (Amazon) when on offer. Regardless, I would still get it for the original price.

El Dorado 15 Year Old:
Flavour/taste: 58/70
Value for money: 15/15
Transparency/purity: 15/15
Overall: 88/100

El Dorado 21 Year Old

This is the oldest expression from the El Dorado continuous releases as their 25 Year Old is marked as a Limited Edition.

This rum is made using distillates from the Versailles wooden vat still, Enmore wooden Coffey still and the French Savalle four-column metal still.

El Dorado 21 Year Old is molasses based, wooden pot still, column and wooden column still distilled and aged for 21 years in old ex-Bourbon casks. Bottled at 40% ABV with potential sugar/caramel added.

On the nose it feels more “dusty”. Stone fruits, blackberries, liquorice and caramel. Dusty old furniture, raisins and ground coffee. The Enmore is really carrying the blend and I like it. Raw cacao nibs, cloves, toasted walnuts and black pepper. Black tea, caramelised bananas and molasses.

On the palate is where the wood is shinning. Toasted biscuits, stout, caramel and nougat. Walnuts, black tea, liquorice and black coffee. This has even more of Caroni-ish profile than the 12 Year Old. Ripe banana, cloves and dark chocolate. Some stone fruits and unripe pineapple as well. The finish is long with toasted walnuts and spicy black tea.

If I take both the flavour profile and value for money in consideration, the 15 Year Old is still a favourite, but I really enjoy this as well. I think the debate should change from 12YO vs 15YO to 15YO vs 21YO. It’s complex, it’s layered, it’s tasty – I just wish it was cheaper. Definitely a fine sipper as well.

Its price-point sits usually at £98 (The Whisky Exchange, House of Malt, Master of Malt), but if you want to buy one I’d recommend to find it on offer at £83 (Amazon).

El Dorado 21 Year Old:
Flavour/taste: 57/70
Value for money: 13/15
Transparency/purity: 15/15
Overall: 85/100

Now here are my highlights of the collection:

El Dorado 3 Year Old – simply put this a tasty white rum with a fairly unique profile and it can be purchased at an inexpensive cost;
El Dorado 8 Year Old – I consider this the best value of the range, an all rounder that’s great for cocktails and fares well neat as well;
El Dorado 15 Year Old – while the 21 Year Old was really good, I’m a sucker for Port Mourant so this takes the top spot for me.

The El Dorado rums have been quite diving among rum enthusiasts due to their addition of sugar/caramel, but it seems they are doing better in that regard. Personally I always thought it was a shame to drown the complexity of their distillates given how unique and historical many of their stills are – even some of their blends that contain only column still components taste very fruity and are reminiscent of some aged pot still rums now. That being said, I can see why some people do miss the moreish profile that El Dorado used to have before.

Regardless, I do have a soft spot for El Dorado and Guyanese rums in general so it remains one of my favourite brands.

Cheers!